How to eat your way through Oaxaca, Mexico
Headed on a trip to Oaxaca, or simply curious about Oaxacan cuisine? I thought I knew what Mexican food was, but that was before I came to Oaxaca and experienced the unique culture there. If you’re looking for a great meal during your stay, look no further — here’s how to eat your way through Oaxaca, Mexico.
A guide to traditional Oaxacan cuisine
As it turns out, in Oaxaca, I didn’t see traditional chicken enchiladas, burritos, tacos, rice and beans on every corner like I was expecting.
Oaxacan food is unlike any other food in the world!
Although Oaxacan food has the same foundation of corn, beans, and chile peppers, much like other parts of Mexico, the way the food is prepared and mixed with other ingredients is really unique.
As you might imagine, the geography of the area has a lot to do with how the food became what it is today. Oaxaca is a state in Mexico filled with mountain ranges which serve as a physical separation that created microclimates and unique cultures within the state over centuries.
Oaxaca City, the capital city of the state, is where all diverse flavors of the state come together, located in the Central Valley region.
You can explore the local flavors on your own, or take a food tour!
I love signing up for food tours because they’re usually led by a local, who knows the food in and out. Check out a few options from Get Your Guide:
A few common food items native to Oaxaca include:
Tlayudas
My favorite Oaxacan dish. A tlayuda (pronounced with a silent ‘t’) is a very popular Oaxacan dish made with a crunchy tortilla, refried beans, lettuce, avocado, meat, Oaxacan cheese, and salsa.
In my opinion, it is similar to a quesadilla, but different. While I was in Oaxaca, I had the chance to make my own tlayuda during a cooking class we signed up for. So fun!
You’ll get a couple options for meat. Tasajo, which literally translates to “jerky” is thin-sliced beef; cecina is sliced pork; and Oaxacan chorizo. At most restaurants, there is also the option of carne asada and sometimes chicken.
Tlayudas are also great for vegetarians because they can always be made without meat, just be sure to specify when ordering.
Chapulines
Grasshoppers! Admittedly, I did not try the chapulines. I did think about it for a second, though.
Chapulines are usually seasoned in garlic, lime juice and salt, which I’ve been told leads to a satisfying tangy taste that also has a great crunch. This savory snack has been consumed in Oaxaca for centuries. If you’re more adventurous than me, you’ve got to try chapulines!
Mole
Oaxaca and the state of Puebla both claim to be the originators of mole sauce. I personally think it’s Oaxaca 😉
Mole sauce comes in seven different varieties, with mole negro as the most popular. Mole negro is made with chocolate, chili peppers, onions, garlic, nuts, pepper, cinnamon, and cumin. Nearly every Oaxacan family has their own unique recipe.
The flavor is deep, complex and intense. In my experience, some people are absolutely obsessed with mole, or some don’t like it at all. Usually mole is served with a choice of meat and rice.
Chocolate
Once you’ve landed in Oaxaca, you’ll quickly catch on that chocolate is a huge part of the culture, used as an ingredient in almost every recipe. Cacao is used to make hot chocolate, mole, and of course, good ol’ chocolate bars.
Don’t leave Oaxaca without trying a taste of the chocolate; it has a really different flavor than what you might expect.
Recommended Restaurants
Boulenc
I loved this restaurant so much, we went back to eat there three times! If you’re looking for authentic Oaxacan food, this might not be the place for you, but you’ll love this restaurant if you like to eat at trendy restaurants.
The light, airy decor and abundance of natural light complements the innovative, healthy menu. It’s beautiful.
We devoured the margarita pizza, which had a sauce that tasted slightly like salsa, in a really good way. That pizza is like no other in the world!
To me, this restaurant felt like an infusion of traditional Oaxaca and hipster Los Angeles, in all the best ways imaginable.
Go to Boulenc. I can’t recommend it enough. Just watch out, there will usually be a wait during rush hours.
Pitiona
We stumbled upon this restaurant thanks to a recommendation from a local. It’s located on the same block as the Santo Domingo Cathedral and the famous Oaxaca sign, so it’s not hard to miss.
There’s a rooftop dining area, but it was chilly when we visited so we opted for the downstairs dining room.
Beautifully decorated with whimsical and modern decor, Pitiona will surprise and delight you throughout your dining experience.
You’ll feel super fancy during your four-course meal and the waiters will treat you like royalty. We took photographs during the entire meal and the waiters never batted an eye or asked us what the heck we were doing. They were so gracious!
Pitiona gets its name from a distinctive Oaxacan herb. Chef Jose Manuel Banos takes all the flavors of Oaxaca in stride by creating innovative combinations of flavors that reminded me of home yet also took me outside my comfort zone.
I tried the soft-shell crab tacos, which I’d never expect to be paired together. Beautifully presented, surprising, and emblematic of all Oaxacan cuisine, Pitiona hits the mark.
We ordered two drinks, an appetizer, two entrees and a dessert and our final bill totalled $50 USD. Keep in mind, a comparable meal in Los Angeles for two people will cost you well over $150.
You must go to Pitiona!
Casa Oaxaca
Casa Oaxaca is one of the most talked about restaurants in Oaxaca. We actually didn’t make it here, but from what I heard from a fellow traveler, the food is incredible.
One Yelp reviewer says, “Everything tasted fresh — from the fresh fruit mezcal cocktails, to the salsa made at your table, to the various mole dishes.”
The experience is a bit more upscale, but again, with the exchange rate from USD or many other currencies, it’s an incredible value. A bit cliche to go to a restaurant named after the city you’re visiting, but also a no-brainer.
La Mezcalerita
We also went here more than once because of the awesome food. La Mezcalerita has my favorite tlayudas in the city because they’re made with blue corn and are super crispy!
Also, the guacamole is so tasty and fresh, served with a side of Oaxaca cheese (quesillo), which is almost just like mozzarella string cheese, if you’re familiar.
If you love mezcal, come here. Also, if you love craft beer, come here. Both the mezcal and beer lists take up more than 75% of the menu. Once you flip to the last page, you’ll find the food!
This place is great for a consistently good meal, but it does feel like it’s trying too hard to be a trendy gastropub, which reminds me a lot of Los Angeles. Still, good food goes a long way especially when you’re in a new place.
Must-try drinks
Mezcal
If you don’t know already, mezcal is an alcoholic drink made from agave. It’s similar to tequila, but yet very different. It’s a clear drink, and often described by Americans as “smoky;” however, I learned that there are a TON of different flavors of mezcal, not just “smoky.”
Fun fact: We learned that there is actually no direct translation for the word smoky in the Spanish language, so many locals won’t understand what you’re talking about if you try to order a ‘smoky’ mezcal.
We went to a mezcal tasting during our stay in Oaxaca, which I’m so glad we signed up for. Our guide, Juan Carlos, led us through tasting all the aromatic flavors of mezcal, just like you would when going for a fine wine tasting.
If you’re interested in signing up for Juan Carlos’ mezcal tasting, check it out on Airbnb here.
We examined the “legs” of the mezcal, aka, how much of the liquid holds up on after you’ve twirled the glass.
Also, we let the drink sit on its own for a few minutes and got to examine how many droplets were still defying gravity highest to the rim — which Juan Carlos said indicates how much alcohol content the particular mezcal variety has.
We went through a couple rounds of smelling the mezcal and trying to identify the taste on the flavor wheel!
There are so many different types of mezcal, you have to try a bunch to find your favorite flavor!
Personally, I love espadin, the most popular type. But try out a bunch and you might be surprised!
Pulque
Uck, pulque. This was not my favorite drink personally, but still, it’s worth seeking out and trying this centuries-old drink! Plus, pretty much everyone else I talked to really liked pulque.
It’s an alcoholic drink made from fermented sap of the maguey plant. This drink has been made traditionally for hundreds of thousands of years.
It is white and frothy, and it has a yeasty, sour taste. It sort of reminded me of a more alcoholic and more fermented kombucha, without the carbonation.
Despite the fact that it’s an authentic, centuries-old drink from Central Mexico, it can still be hard to find in some bars and restaurants in Oaxaca.
If you’re looking to try pulque, you can find it at La Mezcalerita (above). It comes in a blue tin cup and it really is like no other alcoholic drink you could find anywhere, in my opinion.
According to Wikipedia, this rare drink is also the subject of many myths!
Tejate
Tejate is a cold drink typically served in a bowl. I was lucky enough to find tejate during our visit to the Mercado La Merced. While I’m glad I had the chance to try it, sadly, I didn’t quite have the taste for it.
My opinion is that you should try it at least once, though, because it’s truly unlike anything else in the world. Made with fermented corn, cacao, and seeds of the mamey fruit, there’s nothing more Oaxacan than tejate.
This drink can be hard to find, so I’m very lucky it was pointed out to me by Juan Carlos!
Pozonque
A frothy, hot traditional drink made from cacao and corn. It’s almost like what Americans know as hot chocolate, but a lot less sweet than what most of us are used to.
Instead of super sugary, it’s chocolatey with undertones of corn. Very interesting!
There’s a wooden whisk tool called a molinillo that’s used to create the froth specifically for this drink. I even had the chance to see an artisan making a molinillo by hand right on the street during the Dia de los Muertos festival!
Are you ready to book your flight and eat your way through Oaxaca?! I hope so!
If you have any questions about planning a trip to Oaxaca, please feel free to email me at jen@jenontherun.com or send me a DM on Instagram!
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